Sweet Perfumes
What adds sweetness and flavor nuance to perfumes?
On the one hand, it is the fruit, on the other notes such as (some natural, others synthetic ) - " warm milk ", caramel, vanilla, coffee, nougat, cocoa, hazelnut, honey, rum, sesame.
At the beginning of 1992 with Thierry Mugler's Angel, until that moment there was no category of "sweet perfumes" in perfumery and none at all with a predominantly strong, sugary note.
Before "Angel", the sweetness in perfumes came mainly from the fruit, vanilla, and amber (a blend of vanilla + laudanum + benzoin), but it was always the accent, not the dominant feature of the perfume. Some oriental perfumes, with an accent of vanilla in the amber note, have smelled sweeter and more addictive.
Mugler's Angel was quite unusual when it came on the market in the 90s - I remember my first exposure to it and not liking it! With a childlike taste of sweet fruits, cotton candy, patchouli, chocolate, honey, and caramel, it divides opinions and fascinates. There are still two clans, those who hate and those who adore Angel.
It was followed by the huge success of Lolita Lempicka, le parfum, the candy-scented Violet, Victor§Rolf's Flower Bomb of candied flowers and many others.
Interesting and a bit paradoxical is that this group of perfumes, regressive and reminiscent of childhood are the most attractive to the other sex..Personally, I have no logical explanation, but even men's perfumes with intoxicating, sweet notes act quite particularly on the female senses.
Currently, this perfume class is among the most popular and is always in the top 5 best-selling perfumes. The classics of the genre we all know - La vie est belle LANCOME, La petite robe noire GUERLAIN, Nina NINA RICCI, Viva la Juicy JUICY COUTURE....
A little more detail about the sweet ingredients:
Sweet ingredients are divided into natural and laboratory-created - synthetic. (See photos above)
Natural, sweet ingredients in perfumery are:
- cocoa, coffee, rum, sesame and real Madagascar vanilla absolute.
Some of the most used sweet ingredients that have dominated the more commercial perfumery market for at least 20 years are:
- Vanillin : the artificial version of vanilla, which is much more used than vanilla. The real vanilla is a brown stick from which the inside is taken, a sort of brown powder. If you eat ice cream without brown specks, then there is no vanilla, but vanillin ( white powder).
- Veltol or Maltol / Ethyl Maltol : it's EVERYWHERE
It's the "sugar" and "caramel" note in La vie est belle, in Flower Bomb and in 99% of the perfumes in Douglas, Notino and Sephora ( and the thousands of perfume sites and many fakes). Maltol is also the "toasted sugar" in Crystal 24 by Les parfums d'Igior and in Baccarat 540.
- "warm milk" - a very commonly used ingredient for a more milky and comfortable shade
Here are Perfume Echoes' sweet suggestions
- "Fleur Gourmande" Les parfums d'Igor - Romantic, feminine, intoxicating, sexy-sweet.
The sweetness of the pear is intertwined in the eternal erotic flowers - jasmine and tuberose, while patchouli, amber and musk add density and character.
- "Blue Magic" Les parfums d'Igor - Sweet nectar, again intoxicating, but a bit more unisex and with a distant woody note, I guess of patchouli.
The composition is caramel, peach, tangerine, raspberry, nutmeg, patchouli, jasmine, vanilla.
A very sophisticated gourmand perfume, with a fresh note because of the bergamot, with a hazelnut and powdery nuance because of the iris and musk.
Composition - bergamot, hazelnut, patchouli, licorice, iris, cashmeran, amber, musk
- "402 Vanilla, Caramel and Sandalwood" Bon Parfumeur Paris - Comfortable, powdery, with a hint of bee pollen and vanilla.
Ingredients - apple, almond blossom, vanilla, heliotrope, powdered sugar, benzoin, caramel, sandalwood
Citrus and pastries, the aroma of southern Spain, warm Andalusian evenings and orange blossom.
Ingredients - Orange, Petitgrain Lemon Almond Star Anise Cinnamon Orange Blossom Vanilla Powdered Sugar Bean Tonka bean
- Vanilla Hard Perfume by Nolença - a remarkable natural rum - vanilla note
